by hand on a typical Spanish last, with different variations in the swing and width of the toe. The product of the factory of Florit y Cia., Ciudadela, on the island of Minorca, is a Goodyear-welt shoe, however, and commands a wide sale, especially among Spanish clerks in Habana. The wholesale prices of Spanish shoes, according to their quality, are from $30 to $60 per dozen pairs. The leather most often used is a light-weight yellow calfskin of Spanish tannage; Spaniards on the island are very partial to the various shades of yellow. At retail these shoes sell for $3.50 to $8 a pair.

The impression prevails among the Cuban shoe trade, wholesale and retail, that a certain amount of men's shoes will be imported from Spain for many years to come to satisfy a demand on the part of men, principally those of Spanish birth or allegiance, who will continue to buy Spanish shoes as they buy other merchandise of Spanish manufacture, because they are accustomed to their qualities and dislike to change. This is true more especially of middle-aged and elderly men, since the young men of Spanish families have been largely converted into trying and using regularly shoes made in the United States. Although Spanish handmade shoes are very flexible and well made, it is generally conceded by retailers in all parts of the island that they do not give the same satisfaction as Americanmade shoes.

As Cuba is a tropical country, it might naturally be supposed that the use of oxford shoes would predominate, and this has been the case for the past few years, especially on the part of native Cubans. In spite of the very slight difference between summer and winter, the all-year-round demand for low shoes has usually been steady, with the summer months naturally showing the larger call of the two seasons. During the present season (1916), however, there appears to have been a noticeable decline in their use. It is believed that the recent increased use of cloth tops and light-weight leather tops in men's shoes, which has tended to make high shoes more comfortable for hot-weather wear, may account in part for the lessened use of oxfords in Cuba. More high canvas rubber-soled shoes have also been sold by Habana retailers than in other years.

One prominent retail merchant claimed that the demand for oxford shoes would continue to be small for several seasons in the future. A large Habana jobber, on the other hand, who sells extensively both in the capital city and the smaller towns throughout the island, expressed the belief that the present decline in the use of oxfords only reflected a similar condition in the United States, which would be corrected as soon as the present trend toward high-cut patterns for summer wear had ended. It is thus difficult to prophesy accurately regarding the future demand for oxford shoes by Cuban consumers. Congress shoes are decreasing in popularity in Cuba; they are being sold principally to elderly people at present, although formerly many younger men wore them, especially for work shoes. This does not mean that the importation and the domestic manufacture of this kind of shoe are not still large, but retailers all over the Republic are of the opinion that the demand for Congress shoes is lessening annually. Local shoe factories are also making less of this type of shoe than in former years.

For formal wear native Cubans prefer a high button or bal shoe with a patent vamp and a mat top. Cloth tops are not greatly in

demand. Pumps are rarely used at formal functions, although there is a small call for patent-leather pumps for wear at such social affairs as summer dances, especially in the larger cities. Composition soles are not desired in dress shoes even when purchased largely for dancing purposes. Cuban young men are noticeably particular about the appearance of their dress shoes, and the least sign of wear in the uppers means discarding that pair and purchasing another.

WOMEN'S SHOES.

The same changes that have been experienced in the American domestic trade in women's shoes since the beginning of the European war, and more especially during the present year (1916), are reflected in the Cuban trade in women's footwear. In all parts of the island women who have hitherto been accustomed to paying from $2.50 to $4 for their shoes are now readily paying from $6 to $10 in recognition of the style value of the new article. During the late spring and early summer of 1916, when many American manufacturers were forced to raise prices as much as $0.50 per pair each week for several weeks in some grades of women's shoes, Cuban retailers found no difficulty in passing these advances on to the consumer.

Cuban women, like the men, buy their shoes largely by general appearance rather than because of long-wearing qualities. In the better grades of women's shoes the greatest demand at present is for a light, smart-looking, turned shoe. Kid in all colors, except white, is the favorite leather, with patent leather the second choice, especially in low cuts. In high-grade white goods there is a tremendous demand at present for buck. Cabretta, which was formerly very popular with the Cuban trade because of its flexibleness, is not liked at all now. High-grade shoes that are enjoying the greatest sale during the present season are furnished with very light soles, medium to high Louis XV heels (14/8 to 16/8 over-all measurements, with occasionally an 18/8), and medium-pointed plain toe. The heels must be leather-covered wooden, or leather-covered Louis.

Even with the present vogue in high 10-inch boots, there are more low shoes sold to women in Cuba than high cuts. Several years ago a few manufacturers tried to introduce the high boot more generally, but it was found to be a very difficult thing to accomplish. Even at present several retailers have stated that they are heavily stocked with high boots that are not selling well. For summer wear in Cuba the 10-inch boot appears to be too hot for comfort. They are purchased for the first time on account of their style attraction, but repeat orders are the exception. Some Habana retailers believe they will be used more extensively in the capital this winter. The consensus of opinion, however, among retail merchants in different parts of the Republic was unmistakably that, for the women's trade in any event, the low cut is the shoe for Cuba.

Some manufacturers begin their sizes with 23. In Cuba there is a fair demand for smaller sizes; that is, from No. 1 up. The largest sellers are sizes 2, 21, 3, and 31. The widths mostly used are D and E, with an occasional call for EE. The larger sizes are the rule in the Province of Piñar del Rio. Patent-leather pumps are good all-yearround sellers.

Silk linings or laces should not be used for the Cuban trade; on account of climatical conditions they deteriorate rapidly while in stock in the stores.

Previous to this season Cuban jobbing houses usually figured on buying a number of lines of women's American-made shoes at a factory price of $2.50 or $2.75 per pair, in order to sell to the retail trade at $48 or $52 per dozen pairs. The usual sale price to the consumer would be about $5 or $5.75, according to local conditions. As mentioned later, there is no fixed margin of profit in the retail shoe business in Cuba, except in the case of a very few "one-price" stores. The demand is large for women's shoes in the cheaper grades for sale to working people. The factory price for such shoes in normal times has usually been from $0.70 to $1.20 per pair. Any kind and quality of leather is used in these shoes, which sell at retail for $1.20 to $2 a pair.

CHILDREN'S SHOES.

There is almost a total absence of barefooted children in Cuba. Every child uses some form of footwear, even if only cheap rope sandals. Turns are preferred in children's shoes to McKays and Goodyears. Sizes 1 to 5 are generally used without a heel; sizes 5 to 8 have a one-lift heel; and sizes 8 to 11 and 12 to 2 are, as a rule, bought with a regular low heel.

Light-weight leathers are desired-mostly glazed kid in tan and black. Both button and blucher styles are liked. In Habana and the smaller towns a good many pumps and one-strap "baby dolls" are called for.

RUBBER FOOTWEAR.

The market for rubber goods in Cuba is extremely limited. Except for a few rubber boots sold to members of the local fire departments, a small sale to sugar-plantation employees, and the few purchased by men who go into the country to inspect the tobacco crops, there is no demand for rubber footwear of this nature. Rubbers and overshoes are rarely worn by the native Cubans. Rain water dries up very rapidly in the streets. Horses are used extensively in the country districts for traveling, and native workers in the fields have no use for rubber footwear, using heavy leather work shoes or hempsoled alpargatas.

Practically the only call for "sneakers" comes from the cities where tennis is played. There are a number of tennis clubs in Cuba, but the total demand for "sneakers" from these sources is, of course, small.

The use of rubber or composition soles as a substitute for leather is spreading, as in the United States, but thus far they are to be seen principally in the larger cities, like Habana and Santiago. They are sold attached to new pairs of shoes only. As noted elsewhere, there is almost an entire absence of cobblers' or repair shops, and this means that the use of rubber or composition soles in resoling worn shoes will be introduced into Cuba very slowly.

The use of rubber heels is very general in Cuba, especially in the cities. Heels of American manufacture are the only kind to be found, and five well-known trade-marked brands from the United States

are noticed in the stock of retail stores in different parts of the Republic. Distribution is in some cases effected through regular shoejobbing houses at the various ports; in other instances the heels are purchased through a large shoe-findings wholesaler in Habana.

There is very little advertising of rubber heels outside of the capital city, and it is believed that an aggressive advertising campaign throughout the island by manufacturers of these products would result in largely increased sales. In some cities it was significant that, although a retailer would carry a good line of rubber heels in stock, no attempt would be made to announce this fact to the public. Window display cards of metal or cardboard were undoubtedly forwarded by the manufacturer with the shipment of heels, but in many cases these were never utilized, or if so were soon discarded.

There is a good call for rubber heels attached to new shoes, and many retailers carry several lines of both men's and women's shoes imported in this fashion. The price charged for attaching rubber heels to a pair of shoes is, in most cases, $0.70 instead of the standard 50-cent price common in the United States. This amount seems to be a fair figure to the native consumer, and retailers are of the opinion that very few sales are lost.because of the price charged. The problem in Cuba, as with Americans, is not so much the question of price as the matter of convincing a customer that he ought to use heels made of rubber.

V. THE RETAIL SHOE TRADE.

APPEARANCE AND ARRANGEMENT OF STORES.

In appearance, at least, Cuban retail shoe stores are not unlike those in the United States. Many shoe shops, especially in Habana, would not look out of place on Fifth Avenue in New York or Tremont Street in Boston. The interior arrangement is distinctly modeled on American lines. Glass showcases for the display of different styles of footwear and lines of accessories are in general use in the larger cities. A few of the stores in the capital are fitted up with the most modern type of opera chairs, or other individual chairs; one store in particular makes use of decidedly artistic settees. As a rule, however, veneered benches about 8 feet in length are provided for customers.

The method of carrying stock is similar to that in the United States that is, on open shelves. There are very few first-class retail shoe stores in Habana or in Santiago that are not provided with plate-glass windows, although the average store in Cuba has no windows of any description. Stores, as a rule, open directly on the sidewalk during business hours, and are closed at night by sheet-iron shutters, which roll down from above. The Habana stores are invariably well lighted, but this can not be said of stores in other Cuban cities. Indeed, so far as Habana and Santiago shoe stores are concerned American shoe manufacturers can count on having their shoes displayed under conditions not at all different from what they are accustomed to in the United States.

In the towns of the Republic outside of Habana retail stores frequently carry a line of men's furnishings, dry goods, and novelties, in addition to their stock of shoes; in other words, the appearance is

that of a general store rather than a specialty shop. It is very usual to see a considerable line of rugs, and less frequently suit cases and trunks, in shoe stores of all sizes and in all parts of the island.

BUSINESS METHODS.

Notwithstanding the similarity in the appearance and arrangement between most Cuban stores and stores in the United States, there are certain differences in the two ways of doing business. A brief reference to some of these differences and to a few of the problems that are peculiar to the Cuban retail shoe trade may help American shoe manufacturers to understand the Cuban market better.

It is an established custom in Cuba for the buying public to bargain and haggle over each retail purchase. Every customer enters the store expecting to obtain a price lower than the price named in the window. Women shoppers are especially insistent on a reduction being made, and many times a woman will leave the store without purchasing unless the retailer agrees to a reduction; as a rule, before this happens the merchant will halve the difference rather than lose the sale. In not more than half a dozen stores on the entire island is the "one-price system" really adhered to, and these stores all hold the exclusive agency for an American shoe with a well-known trade-marked name, the manufacturer of which insists on this rule being followed. There are many hundreds of small retail shoe stores in Cuba, and a large number of good-sized stores, commonly rated as "first class," the proprietors of which can never be sure of a fixed margin of profit in their business.

It is only within the past year or two that Cuban women have personally visited shoe stores to try on shoes and to make purchases actually on the premises. To a certain extent it still is the custom for a woman to telephone or send a message to the shoe store, requesting that six or more pairs of shoes or slippers, or both, be sent to her home on approval. If none of the shoes suited her after trying them on, more pairs would be requested and sent from the store, and this would continue, sometimes over several days, until finally she found a pair to her liking. This necessitated carrying an extra large stock. Gradually the practice sprang up of having, in the store, a "salon de prueba," a sort of room within a room, a private compartment with glass windows within which the women might have their shoes fitted. Most Cuban stores are now equipped with a private fitting room of this nature, although frequently a merchant may be asked to send shoes out to various homes on approval.

Retail shoe stores open generally at 7 a. m. The busiest time of the day in Habana stores, and to a less degree in stores in the rest of the country, is between 4 and 6 in the afternoon. From 11 a. m. until 3 p. m., when the heat is more noticeable than at any other time, there is practically no trade. Clerks are then given half an hour for breakfast, or "almuerzo," as the noon meal is termed.

NATIONAL HABITS AND CUSTOMS.

A custom that has no parallel in the United States and is rather widespread, especially in the smaller stores, is that of tying a string around every individual carton of shoes in the stock of the shoe store.