African TextilesGenerously sized and beautifully illustrated, African Textiles is an authoritative survey of textile arts - unique and collectible rugs, tapestries, garments, and much more - from across the continent. Author John Gillow traveled extensively throughout Africa, uncovering the dazzling range of traditional hand-crafted textiles from each region. Five sections detail the textile history and traditions within Africa's major geographical areas, examining materials, dyes, decorations, patterns, and techniques. From the stripweave cloth of the Ashanti in the West to Ethiopian embroidery in the East, from Berber rugs in the North to the Madagascan silk of the South - and everything in between - the breadth of coverage in African Textiles is peerless. Robustly illustrated with over 500 color photographs and drawings, this is an exciting new sourcebook for those interested in textile design and the traditional arts of Africa. |
Contents
The Diversity of African Textiles | 9 |
WEST AFRICA | 17 |
Introduction | 19 |
Stripweaves | 23 |
The tripod loom stripweaves of Sierra Leone and Liberia | 29 |
Ashanti stripweaves | 32 |
Ewe stripweaves | 38 |
Djerma weaving of Niger and BurkinaFaso | 43 |
Moroccan tie and | 138 |
South Tunisian tie and | 139 |
Mediterraneaninfluenced urban embroidery | 140 |
Ottomaninfluenced urban embroidery | 144 |
Tunisian metalthread embroidery | 146 |
The embroidery of Siwa Oasis Egypt | 149 |
Egyptian appliqué | 150 |
Assyut silvered work on net Egypt | 152 |
Woollen stripweaves of the Niger Bend 50 Nigerian horizontalloom weaving | 50 |
Yoruba lace weave | 54 |
Nigerian womens vertical looms | 56 |
The supplementary weft cloths of IjebuOde and Akwete | 61 |
Tie and | 62 |
Nigerian tie and | 64 |
Tie and dye of the Dida Ivory Coast | 67 |
Stitched resist | 68 |
Yoruba stitched resist | 70 |
Machinestitched resist | 75 |
Yoruba and Baulé warp ikat | 76 |
Nigerian starchresist by hand | 78 |
Stencilled starchresist | 82 |
Wax resist | 84 |
Mali mud cloths | 87 |
Adinkra stamped cloths of Ghana | 88 |
Stamped stencilled and dyed clothing from Sierra Leone Guinea and Mali | 92 |
Fante flags from Ghana | 95 |
Painted calligraphy cloths and amulets | 96 |
Embroidered robes of the Hausa and the Nupe | 100 |
Yoruba beadwork | 104 |
NORTH AFRICA | 107 |
Introduction | 109 |
Berber vertical looms | 113 |
Ground weaves | 116 |
Hennadyed AntiAtlas woollens | 119 |
Algerian Berber weaves | 120 |
Berber wool and cotton weaves of Tunisia | 124 |
Horizontal loom urban weaves | 126 |
Pitlooms of Egypt | 130 |
Tapestry weaves of Egypt and Morocco | 132 |
The lampas weaves of Fez and Tetouan | 137 |
Introduction | 157 |
The cotton shawls of Ethiopia | 160 |
Ethiopian embroidery | 164 |
Leather shell and beadwork | 168 |
Bark cloth of Uganda | 172 |
Kangas and kikois | 175 |
CENTRAL AFRICA | 179 |
Introduction | 181 |
Cameroon raphia weaving | 185 |
Ndop resistdyed cloth of grasslands Cameroon | 186 |
Kuba raphia weaving in the Congo | 190 |
Kuba appliquéd and embroidered skirts | 192 |
Shoowa cutpile embroidery the Congo | 196 |
Tied and stitchedresist textiles of the Kuba the Congo | 198 |
Pygmy and Kuba bark cloth the Congo | 202 |
Bead and shell work of the Congo and Cameroon | 204 |
Crocheted hats from Cameroon | 207 |
Feathered hats of Cameroon | 208 |
SOUTHERN AFRICA | 211 |
Introduction | 213 |
Zulu beadwork | 216 |
Ndebele beadwork | 221 |
Xhosa beadwork | 222 |
Madagascan raphia | 224 |
Madagascan silk | 227 |
Glossary | 233 |
| 235 | |
| 236 | |
| 238 | |
| 239 | |
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Common terms and phrases
adire eleko Akwete Amhara Anti-Atlas appliqué aprons areas Ashanti Bamileke bark cloth beads beadwork Berber BOTTOM LEFT Cameroon CENTRE century ceremonial coast colour Congo cotton cloth crocheted cut-pile decorated Djerma dyed embroidered embroidery Ethiopia fabric fibres Fulani garments Ghana grasslands Cameroon handwoven Hausa heddle ikat indigo indigo-dyed kangas Kasai river kente cloth Kuba lamba leather Maasai Mahdia Mali Merina Morocco motifs Muslim Ndebele ndop Nigeria North Africa OPPOSITE LEFT OPPOSITE TOP panels pattern raphia region selvedge to selvedge sewn shawl Sierra Leone silk skirt southern strips stripweaves stripwoven cloth supplementary weft technique textiles tie-dyed TOP LEFT TOP RIGHT trade traditional treadle Tuareg Tunisia vertical loom village warp threads warp-faced wearing weavers weaving weft West Africa woman's wrap women wool woollen worn XX X XX XX XX Yoruba Zulu العظيم ولا الله الله الله یا الله با بالله قوة الا والله ولا قوة يا یا الله یا